tretinoin for acne - my current skincare routine

Although retinol creams have been on the market and popularized for topical use since the 80s, they have been gaining popularity among skincare enthusiasts and estheticians in recent months. Celebrities like Chrissy Teigen and Jessica Alba rave about this crucial step in skincare routines–but what’s the hype around it?

Retinol creams are typically used as resurfacing treatments for skin issues ranging from acne to wrinkles due to natural aging. “When used in combination with an SPF, retinol protects the skin from sun damage and diminishes the appearance of dark spots, while rejuvenating the skin surface,” according to luxury skincare brand, 111SKIN.

It sounds like a dream, right? Well, like all great things, there’s bound to be a caveat. From dry, flaky skin to irritation and even the dreaded Tretinoin Purge, the effects of retinol may sound daunting and frustrating. Rest assured that with great risk comes great reward, and patience and consistency are key!

I’ve struggled with acne for as long as I can remember, and after I developed pulmonary embolisms from a birth control pill, hormonal therapy was off the table to help ease my skin frustrations...and I was back to square one. It’s been an arduous, uphill battle with trying new products and staying consistent with topical treatments, especially with sensitive skin. After months of trial and error, I’ve developed an AM and PM regimen that incorporates the prescription retinol known as tretinoin, and yes, the hype is real.

MORNING

1. First thing’s first: cleanse.

In all honesty, I have used far too many face cleansers over the years. Dermatologists have always told me to keep it simple with products from CeraVe or Cetaphil, but I’ve found that these may not give my skin all the TLC it needs while using tretinoin. I’ve started to use Dermologica’s Special Cleansing Gel which is gentle enough for all skin types, according to their site. In the mornings, I start by wetting my face and applying a small amount of the Cleansing Gel, making sure to wash thoroughly for about a full minute. Because I never want to over-process my face, I only cleanse with my hands in the morning.

2. Tone it up, girl.

Next on the list is a toner. This step of skincare routines has always been up for debate; some skip it, some can’t live without it. Finding a toner that works for your skins’ needs is the essential part of this step, but steering away from harsh chemicals and astringents is a must. Instead, find a nourishing toner, like this one from First Aid Beauty, and apply to a cotton round and onto your skin after cleansing.

3. Get your glow on

Depending on your skin type and your skincare goals, you can definitely customize this step to your needs. My skin is textured to the max with small bumps and large pores. Tretinoin is the holy grail of reversing both of those areas of concern, but for stubborn skin like mine, serums work so well to get rid of any pesky spots. I specifically use the Ordinary’s Niacinimize + Zinc serum to help even out the surface of my skin. It’s used to help protect the skin’s natural barrier and overall complexion, leaving you with a brighter, more radiant complexion. With tretinoin, which can have skin lightening effects, it’s important to nourish the skin with serums and hydrating treatments to minimize the potential for irritation.

4. Three letters: SPF

I’ve never used an SPF in my daily routine until recently, even though I’ve heard for years how important it is for your skin. Because tretinoin speeds up the process of skin turnover, incorporating a daily sunscreen is probably one of the most important steps in my morning routine. Even during the winter and spring months when my sun exposure is limited, using sunscreen to add another layer of protection against harmful UV rays is necessary since my skin is even more sensitive with retinol treatment. I go for a lightweight, non-greasy formula to wear under my makeup, and I’m currently loving La Roche-Posay’s moisturizer with SPF for the final step in my AM skincare routine.

NIGHT

1. The pre is key

Double cleansing has been gaining popularity, especially for those struggling with acne. The term “double cleanse,” as the name implies, refers to the process of washing your face twice--with a twist. A double cleanse starts with washing first with an oil-based cleanser, and then following up with a water-based one. Though it can sound horrifying (and maybe a bit counterintuitive) to wash with oil, this step is meant to rid the skin of all stubborn makeup, excess dirt, and oil from the day. After I do my first wash with Dermologica’s Pre-Cleanse oil cleanser, I then wash with the same Cleansing Gel that I use in the AM.

At this point of the nightly routine, I’ll typically apply the same toner and serum from the morning. While I do use my toner morning and night, I typically apply my serums every other night to avoid any irritation.

Note: I wait 30 to 45 minutes before applying my tretinoin to make sure that my skin is entirely dry as applying to a wet/moist face can cause serious irritation and dryness.

2. The sandwich method

Yep, we’re cheffin’ it up here. This part of my routine has helped my skin adjust to retinol so much, and I swear by the sandwich method when I apply it nightly. After letting my face dry thoroughly, I apply a thick, generous layer of an intense hydration moisturizer, and then, it’s (finally) time to grab the tube of retinol. I apply a pea sized amount (!!) to my finger and dab it onto my forehead, both of my cheeks, and my chin, and I work quickly to make sure it absorbs into my skin before it dries. To finish the sandwich, I apply a second layer of the same moisturizer over the retinol. Delicious, huh?

3. Nourish, nourish, nourish.

I have such sensitive skin and I have watched my skin flake off in layers. The only method that I’ve found to completely eliminate the alarming amount of skin irritation has been applying a facial oil over my moisturizer. Using a small amount of Drunk Elephant’s Luxury Facial Oil or The Ordinary’s B Oil after my sandwich method has seriously improved my tolerance for the retinol which can be a lengthy, tedious process. I don't rub the oil into my skin, but instead, I lightly pat it over my face and focus heavily on areas that tend to dry out easily.

If skincare was as easy as these steps, everyone would be doing it, right? Battling acne can be exhausting and frustrating (I still break out), but remaining committed to a routine that works best for you will be so incredibly worth it in the long run. Both prescription tretinoin and over-the-counter retinol treatments are certainly not one-size-fits-all methods, so expect some trial and error when developing a routine that works well for your skin concerns. But don’t worry, you’ll be glowing before you know it.